ePetDrugs Blog

This is a three part series detailing the advantages and disadvantages of both flea collars and drops such as Frontline or Advantage.

Flea collars were introduced in the mid ’60s as a safe and effective way to rid your pet of fleas and ticks. The collars were made out of a special blend of plastic which allowed for a slow release of an insecticide that would kill the adult fleas and ticks.

There are a couple issues with fleas and ticks other than just the normal biting of animals. Some animals are allergic to flea bites and can actually develop skin and fur problem from their bites. Also, fleas and ticks take moisture from the animal from around the eyes and mouth and can severely dehydrate a pet in a matter of days if not properly taken care of.

Flea collars work because the animal absorbs the emitted toxic nerve gas into their skin, please note that your pet also inhales these gases in smaller amounts. When this is released, it paralyses the ticks and they fall off and die.

As far as flea and tick collars go, there is no comparison between the ones suggested by your veterinarian and the ones you can pick up at the local store. While they claim to do the same thing, the ones in the store are not nearly as effective. Also, the collars can cause their own skin and fur reactions due to the concentration of medicine in close contact with your pet.

During this time of year, especially in the extreme cold states, it is very easy for pets to get dry and itchy skin. By now your pet should have its winter coat which keeps them nice and warm, but that doesn’t protect from the dry conditions caused by the cold.

Take a step back and watch your pets for a few minutes. Do they seem like they are scratching more today than they did, say, during the summer? Probably so. There are a few simple things that you can do to help your pets out this winter to make sure that your scratching is for feel good purposes only.

Rub-a-dub-dub:

Bathing your pet automatically causes the skin to dry out, especially when you use shampoo. Many shampoo’s boast about keeping the coat shiny with conditioners and such, but the coat isn’t what we are worried about here, it is the skin underneath. With each bath, the essential oils produced by the skin to keep it moist, are washed away leaving a dry, flaky sensation behind.

Here Fishy-Fishy:

Omega 3 fatty acids are found in a number of foods these days. The foods that are rich in Omega 3’s will aid in the skin’s production of oil as well as a host of other nifty functions, like nail growth, coat sheen and a healthy mind. Omega 3 supplements, like Welactin, can also be given to your pets. I used to buy the gel capsules, break two open and squeeze them into the food. It smelled horrible because it was the fish oil, but my Great Dane loved it!

Does this coat make me look fat?

Not all fats are bad. Essential Fatty Acids (Omega 3’s) and Amino Acids, which are the building blocks of protein are great for skin and coat health. These supplements provide nutrients that the skin needs in order to keep itself moist and flexible.

Please be aware of the condition of your pet’s skin. How would you like to be dry and cracked? Pet’s don’t have lotion like we do, so they have to get their fix through their diet. Next time you look at your pet, just say, “If I scratch your back, will you scratch…something other than the furniture?” You might be surprised at the answer.

So, Jack won’t stop barking at the squirrels, Boomer keeps nipping at guests and Lucy won’t come when called, much less fetch a ball. What in the world is there that can fix these things?

Not all pet training is created equal. Some systems employ, what I like to call, the Trick or Treat method, where after the trick the dog will get a treat as a reward. This is a great method if you are looking to get a little behavior modification such as a sit, stay, or lay down.

Another method is rewarding with actions rather than treats. For instance, scratching behind the ears when a trick is performed correctly. This saves the trainer from losing control of the dog just because there are no treats around.

Dog Whispering uses methods that work off of the pack mentality. The trainer assumes the role of Alpha Male and uses that authority to command his/her presence.

Finally, there are other methods such as pulse collars, mostly used for training dogs who hunt and are out in the field actively doing something that requires a lot of self-control.

Different training techniques work for different situations. For instance you probably wouldn’t use a pulse collar on a dog getting ready for a show. The best choice would probably be either rewarding with actions or something similar to dog whispering. Figure out what your needs and budget are, then start contacting local trainers and see what they suggest, but don’t forget to ask why. There is no point in paying someone to train your dog like a show dog if all you want them to do is to come when called.

Animals are prone to the same issues with their ears as us humans are. The only difference is that a cat can’t grab a cotton swab and have a go at it if there is water in their ear while a dog can’t administer drops in case of an ear infection.

That is where we come in to help. By taking care of our pet’s ears, we not only help them out, but we save ourselves a trip to the vet. One of the most common issues that I witnessed while working in a vet hospital is ear infection. I would guestimate that at least one pet every other day would come in and subsequently leave with a small dose of antibiotic drops to be applied twice a day for 10 days.

Animals are prone to the same issues with their ears as us humans are. The only difference is that a cat can’t grab a cotton swab and have a go at it if there is water in their ear while a dog can’t administer drops in case of an ear infection.

That is where we come in to help. By taking care of our pet’s ears, we not only help them out, but we save ourselves a trip to the vet. One of the most common issues that I witnessed while working in a vet hospital is ear infection. I would guestimate that at least one pet every other day would come in and subsequently leave with a small dose of antibiotic drops to be applied twice a day for 10 days.

There are products that help to keep our pet’s ears clean and dry. Just like with humans, there are drops for swimmers ear, general cleaning and drying, and also for mild ear infections. Some of these drops are meant to be used after baths and summer playtime in the pools and ponds. Others are only to be use if an ear infection has started. Please consult the directions on the bottles for proper usage instructions. If used properly, these eardrops can help keep you and your pet happy.

Have you ever cut your fingernail too close to the skin? It hurts like the dickens doesn’t it? Sure it does, and it usually bleeds too. It is the same way with your pet.

The quick is the living part of the nail, that little pink triangle on the underneath side of the paw at the base of the claw. Think of it as your finger under your fingernail, that soft fleshy part that turns black when you hit it with a hammer.

The last thing you want to do is cut the quick on your pet. This usually is followed by a yelp or hiss and some blood on the nail. Here is the easiest way I found to cut the nail without getting too close.

Bend your finger slightly. Do you see how it creates little nooks? There is a little nook just like that between the tip of the quick and the bottom of the dead part of the nail. Position the bottom blade of the nail clippers right in that nook and then move the top blade down towards the tip of the nail, just a little bit. Make sure the nail clipper is perpendicular to the nail and cut.

Tadaa. You have a nail that is cut close to the quick, but not to the sensitive part. Your pet will love you for this and you will save yourself the hassle of chasing down a dog who doesn’t want his nails cut again.

It is, with out a doubt, getting colder outside. With that weather change, our joints are getting a little more stiff each morning, trying to warm up and get accustom to the weather change. Your pets are no different.

Puppies, sure, they can be up and playing around in a matter of 5 minutes. What kid can’t? The older the dog (or cat for that matter) the more difficult of a time they might have. If you don’t believe me, think back to when you were a teen. You could jump out of bed, dishevel your hair, grab a pop tart and be out the door for school in 13.27 minutes flat. I don’t know about you, but now it takes me almost an hour to get up and moving and out of the house.

There are a few great supplements you can give your pet if you would like. They are natural and most humans take them. My brother gives his Akita, who is 11 years old, glucoasmine every morning and evening. It has made a huge difference in his joint movement. ePets actually sells a product by Dasuquin which is formulated with glucosamine, but even better is that they actually measure out the doses for you depending on the size of your pet.

If you notice your pet having a hard time getting up or even moving about every day, I challenge you to give them glucosamine for 30 days straight and see if there isn’t any improvement. I bet there will be a big difference and there is nothing like having your best friend back to normal for the holidays.

Dental hygiene is just as important for pets as it is for humans. Most people think that by eating hard foods, the dog or cat will be able to maintain dental integrity. Just because you can chew through a pound of croutons, does that mean you don’t have to brush?

No! Of course not.

Pets are no different and there are numerous types of dental care items you can buy. Here are the ones I suggest:

C.E.T. Oral Hygiene Kit for Dogs - This kit includes poultry-flavored C.E.T. Enzymatic Toothpaste, C.E.T. Fingerbrush, and C.E.T. Dual-Ended Toothbrush. To be quite honest, I like the fingerbrush the best. It lets you know you are getting everywhere you need to. Cats are a little more difficult and if you don’t feel comfortable restraining your cat (trust me, you will most likely need to do this) then make sure you have a dental checkup with your vet at least twice a year.

There are a few mouth rinses which can be purchased here and here if you would like. I don’t usually use these because they are a bit messy, but to each their own.

Finally there is an equivalent to a fluoride treatment to help protect and prevent plaque and tarter buildup. It is called OraVet and works quite well. It is rather simple to apply and works great as an in-between cleaning prevention.

No matter what you decide to use, just make sure you are consistent with the cleaning. It will make all the difference to your pet’s teeth.

Declawing cats, otherwise known as onychectomy, is a pretty touchy subject. Some rant about how nice it is to now have couch tassels and others boast of the inhumane procedure involved. Like all things there are pros and cons on each side of the ball of yarn.

It is a solid and unwavering fact: Cats naturally have claws. They are similar to our fingernails. Just think of all the things you do to your fingernails and then imagine your cat doing the same. OK, well maybe not painting them cherry red or anything, but cutting them down if they start to crack or filing them if they become too uneven. Cats have to go through the same process, only in different ways.

A cat with claws usually needs to file them down if they get too long. This is done on a rough surface, or some place they can dig their claws into. If your cat is able to go outside, trees are usually the prime victim, but for an inside cat, there is usually only furniture and the carpet. It is best to introduce your cat at a very young age to a scratching post so that they learn where to “cut” their nails.

Cats that have an abnormal destructive behavior or are in danger of harming people usually need to be declawed and at this point many vets would rather see a declaw than turning in to a shelter or even worse, letting the cat go wild outside. If you think your cat might fit this category, talk to your vet. There might be other methods to help such as a new vinyl cap that can be fitted over their claw to help keep it dull.

While cats with claws can be destructive inside the house, cats without claws have no form of protection outside the house. This is a giant factor when deciding whether or not to declaw. Once again, talk with your vet and know that like all surgery procedures, animal and human alike, there is a possibility for error and an altered outcome.

Bloat, or Gastric dilatation-volvulus (GDV) or torsion (GDT) is a very serious issue in “deep-chested” dogs and is the second leading killer after cancer. Bloat is usually found in large breed dogs that are fed once a day. They will usually inhale their food, gulp down a gallon of water and then want to go for a run right after.

The types of dogs that bloat usually affects are Great Danes, German Shepherds, St. Bernards, Akitas, Bloodhounds, Weimaraners and Collies, just to name a few. Some of the signs of bloat include, but are not limited to, abdominal distention, salivating, restlessness, unproductive gagging and a “hunched up” appearance.

Of course, the best cure for bloat is to make sure it doesn’t happen. A few ways to do this is to spread out the feeding over 3 times a day. Also, try to slow down their eating so they do not inhale it, I like to cut a baseball in half and bolt it to the inside of the dish. This makes the dog take more time to try and get the food out. Also, avoid any strenuous exercise for at least an hour after eating, two would be preferred.

If you suspect your dog has bloat, the best thing to do is take them to the vet immediately. I would suggest calling ahead to allow the staff ample time to prepare. I know what it is like to take a dog in for emergency surgery, but the best thing you can do is to stay in the waiting room so that the vet and his/her assistants are able to work quickly and effectively. Someone will come out shortly to give you a status update.

Recap, large breed dogs that have a deep and narrow chest structure are mostly affected. Spread out feedings and try to slow eating and drinking habits. Let the dog rest for a couple of hours before resuming play. If something happens, call the vet immediately.

Has anyone ever had to deal with this situation first hand? If so, please share your story and let others know what to expect.