Archive for the 'Pet Health' Category

Flea Collar vs. Drops - Round 1

Dec 15, 2008 in Pet Health, Pet Safety

This is a three part series detailing the advantages and disadvantages of both flea collars and drops such as Frontline or Advantage.

Flea collars were introduced in the mid ’60s as a safe and effective way to rid your pet of fleas and ticks. The collars were made out of a special blend of plastic which allowed for a slow release of an insecticide that would kill the adult fleas and ticks.

There are a couple issues with fleas and ticks other than just the normal biting of animals. Some animals are allergic to flea bites and can actually develop skin and fur problem from their bites. Also, fleas and ticks take moisture from the animal from around the eyes and mouth and can severely dehydrate a pet in a matter of days if not properly taken care of.

Flea collars work because the animal absorbs the emitted toxic nerve gas into their skin, please note that your pet also inhales these gases in smaller amounts. When this is released, it paralyses the ticks and they fall off and die.

As far as flea and tick collars go, there is no comparison between the ones suggested by your veterinarian and the ones you can pick up at the local store. While they claim to do the same thing, the ones in the store are not nearly as effective. Also, the collars can cause their own skin and fur reactions due to the concentration of medicine in close contact with your pet.

Can You Scratch My Itch?

Dec 12, 2008 in Pet Health

During this time of year, especially in the extreme cold states, it is very easy for pets to get dry and itchy skin. By now your pet should have its winter coat which keeps them nice and warm, but that doesn’t protect from the dry conditions caused by the cold.

Take a step back and watch your pets for a few minutes. Do they seem like they are scratching more today than they did, say, during the summer? Probably so. There are a few simple things that you can do to help your pets out this winter to make sure that your scratching is for feel good purposes only.

Rub-a-dub-dub:

Bathing your pet automatically causes the skin to dry out, especially when you use shampoo. Many shampoo’s boast about keeping the coat shiny with conditioners and such, but the coat isn’t what we are worried about here, it is the skin underneath. With each bath, the essential oils produced by the skin to keep it moist, are washed away leaving a dry, flaky sensation behind.

Here Fishy-Fishy:

Omega 3 fatty acids are found in a number of foods these days. The foods that are rich in Omega 3’s will aid in the skin’s production of oil as well as a host of other nifty functions, like nail growth, coat sheen and a healthy mind. Omega 3 supplements, like Welactin, can also be given to your pets. I used to buy the gel capsules, break two open and squeeze them into the food. It smelled horrible because it was the fish oil, but my Great Dane loved it!

Does this coat make me look fat?

Not all fats are bad. Essential Fatty Acids (Omega 3’s) and Amino Acids, which are the building blocks of protein are great for skin and coat health. These supplements provide nutrients that the skin needs in order to keep itself moist and flexible.

Please be aware of the condition of your pet’s skin. How would you like to be dry and cracked? Pet’s don’t have lotion like we do, so they have to get their fix through their diet. Next time you look at your pet, just say, “If I scratch your back, will you scratch…something other than the furniture?” You might be surprised at the answer.

Joint Health

Dec 05, 2008 in Pet Health

It is, with out a doubt, getting colder outside. With that weather change, our joints are getting a little more stiff each morning, trying to warm up and get accustom to the weather change. Your pets are no different.

Puppies, sure, they can be up and playing around in a matter of 5 minutes. What kid can’t? The older the dog (or cat for that matter) the more difficult of a time they might have. If you don’t believe me, think back to when you were a teen. You could jump out of bed, dishevel your hair, grab a pop tart and be out the door for school in 13.27 minutes flat. I don’t know about you, but now it takes me almost an hour to get up and moving and out of the house.

There are a few great supplements you can give your pet if you would like. They are natural and most humans take them. My brother gives his Akita, who is 11 years old, glucoasmine every morning and evening. It has made a huge difference in his joint movement. ePets actually sells a product by Dasuquin which is formulated with glucosamine, but even better is that they actually measure out the doses for you depending on the size of your pet.

If you notice your pet having a hard time getting up or even moving about every day, I challenge you to give them glucosamine for 30 days straight and see if there isn’t any improvement. I bet there will be a big difference and there is nothing like having your best friend back to normal for the holidays.

Brush ‘em, Brush ‘em, Brush ‘em

Dec 04, 2008 in Pet Health, Uncategorized

Dental hygiene is just as important for pets as it is for humans. Most people think that by eating hard foods, the dog or cat will be able to maintain dental integrity. Just because you can chew through a pound of croutons, does that mean you don’t have to brush?

No! Of course not.

Pets are no different and there are numerous types of dental care items you can buy. Here are the ones I suggest:

C.E.T. Oral Hygiene Kit for Dogs - This kit includes poultry-flavored C.E.T. Enzymatic Toothpaste, C.E.T. Fingerbrush, and C.E.T. Dual-Ended Toothbrush. To be quite honest, I like the fingerbrush the best. It lets you know you are getting everywhere you need to. Cats are a little more difficult and if you don’t feel comfortable restraining your cat (trust me, you will most likely need to do this) then make sure you have a dental checkup with your vet at least twice a year.

There are a few mouth rinses which can be purchased here and here if you would like. I don’t usually use these because they are a bit messy, but to each their own.

Finally there is an equivalent to a fluoride treatment to help protect and prevent plaque and tarter buildup. It is called OraVet and works quite well. It is rather simple to apply and works great as an in-between cleaning prevention.

No matter what you decide to use, just make sure you are consistent with the cleaning. It will make all the difference to your pet’s teeth.

To Shred or Not To Shred

Dec 03, 2008 in Pet Health, Pet Safety, Uncategorized

Declawing cats, otherwise known as onychectomy, is a pretty touchy subject. Some rant about how nice it is to now have couch tassels and others boast of the inhumane procedure involved. Like all things there are pros and cons on each side of the ball of yarn.

It is a solid and unwavering fact: Cats naturally have claws. They are similar to our fingernails. Just think of all the things you do to your fingernails and then imagine your cat doing the same. OK, well maybe not painting them cherry red or anything, but cutting them down if they start to crack or filing them if they become too uneven. Cats have to go through the same process, only in different ways.

A cat with claws usually needs to file them down if they get too long. This is done on a rough surface, or some place they can dig their claws into. If your cat is able to go outside, trees are usually the prime victim, but for an inside cat, there is usually only furniture and the carpet. It is best to introduce your cat at a very young age to a scratching post so that they learn where to “cut” their nails.

Cats that have an abnormal destructive behavior or are in danger of harming people usually need to be declawed and at this point many vets would rather see a declaw than turning in to a shelter or even worse, letting the cat go wild outside. If you think your cat might fit this category, talk to your vet. There might be other methods to help such as a new vinyl cap that can be fitted over their claw to help keep it dull.

While cats with claws can be destructive inside the house, cats without claws have no form of protection outside the house. This is a giant factor when deciding whether or not to declaw. Once again, talk with your vet and know that like all surgery procedures, animal and human alike, there is a possibility for error and an altered outcome.

Bloat, Not Just for Humans

Dec 02, 2008 in Pet Health, Pet Safety

Bloat, or Gastric dilatation-volvulus (GDV) or torsion (GDT) is a very serious issue in “deep-chested” dogs and is the second leading killer after cancer. Bloat is usually found in large breed dogs that are fed once a day. They will usually inhale their food, gulp down a gallon of water and then want to go for a run right after.

The types of dogs that bloat usually affects are Great Danes, German Shepherds, St. Bernards, Akitas, Bloodhounds, Weimaraners and Collies, just to name a few. Some of the signs of bloat include, but are not limited to, abdominal distention, salivating, restlessness, unproductive gagging and a “hunched up” appearance.

Of course, the best cure for bloat is to make sure it doesn’t happen. A few ways to do this is to spread out the feeding over 3 times a day. Also, try to slow down their eating so they do not inhale it, I like to cut a baseball in half and bolt it to the inside of the dish. This makes the dog take more time to try and get the food out. Also, avoid any strenuous exercise for at least an hour after eating, two would be preferred.

If you suspect your dog has bloat, the best thing to do is take them to the vet immediately. I would suggest calling ahead to allow the staff ample time to prepare. I know what it is like to take a dog in for emergency surgery, but the best thing you can do is to stay in the waiting room so that the vet and his/her assistants are able to work quickly and effectively. Someone will come out shortly to give you a status update.

Recap, large breed dogs that have a deep and narrow chest structure are mostly affected. Spread out feedings and try to slow eating and drinking habits. Let the dog rest for a couple of hours before resuming play. If something happens, call the vet immediately.

Has anyone ever had to deal with this situation first hand? If so, please share your story and let others know what to expect.

Which Pet Food Do I Choose?

Nov 28, 2008 in Pet Health

There are many  different types of pet foods on the market. There are foods that are high in fat and low in protein, some that have glucosamine for joint health, and some that help with hairball maintenance. Depending on what your pet needs, there is a food designed especially for them.

If you are looking to increase the shine on a coat, look for a food that is high in Omega-3’s. These will also help with skin and nail health and even kidney function. If your pet is older, get something with glucosamine. As far as active dogs, a higher protein diet will provide them the energy that they need in order to sustain their activity level. For bigger dogs, an equal balance of fat and protein, I have found, tends to be the best.

Hairball reduction is big in cat foods, and especially important for cats with long hair. This helps their body digest the hair so that it doesn’t come back up the wrong way. You can get the same type of results if you are looking for organic food. For instance, a food that has cranberries is great for kidney function and anything with fish is usually high in omega-3’s.

Look at your pet’s needs before purchasing food to figure out what the needs are. If you still have any questions, make sure you talk to your vet. Also, remember that if you are changing food, do it gradually as to not upset your pet’s stomach. The best way to do this is to break it into quarters. For example, the first 2 days, mix 75% of original food with 25% of the new food. The next two days, go 50-50. For two days after that, make it 25% of the old and 75% of the new. Then you can start the new food by itself. If your pet seems to have serious bathroom issues, back down the amount of new food and gradually increase it again.

Have you just changed foods? What type of pet do you have and what needs did you address?

Holiday Pet Safety

Nov 26, 2008 in Pet Health, Pet Safety, Uncategorized

While the holiday season is filled with joy and fun, they are also a prime time for disaster to strike. There are a few things to consider if you are hosting a holiday get-together this year, especially if you have pets. Making sure you and your pets make it through the holiday season safe and sound is one of the biggest accomplishments you can boast about the day after, that and that amazing green bean casserole you made from scratch.

If you have a medium to large dog, please make sure they do not go table surfing, especially during the actual dinner. It is a great way for them to get sick, not to mention who wants to eat that amazing green bean casserole if it has a paw print in the middle of it. When dogs, and some cats for that matter, table surf, they tend to over eat big time. The result, you will have to clean up more than the initial mess they made. While food is out, let the pets outside to stretch their legs if you have a fenced in backyard. If not, put them in another room with a toy and a few treats of their own.

Turkey bones, or any avian (bird) bones for that matter are bad news when it comes to pets. The reason being, bird bones are lighter than others as they have tiny air pockets in them to help the bird fly. These bones don’t just break like a stick would, they fracture and shatter into tiny pieces. These small pieces can cause a choking hazard to cats as well as lodge themselves in digestive tracts and can wreak havoc on internal organs.

With the flow of guests this season, the door will open and shut enough times to heat the entire neighborhood. It is important to make sure you have a good eye on your pets as friends and family come and go. The last thing you would want on a Thanksgiving is to have to look for your pet because they just so happened to slip out when someone had the door open.

Along with the opening and closing of the door, you have to account for the number of people you will have at your place. Before inviting your friends, family, neighbors, home-owners association members, city council, and your long lost cousin’s father’s monkey, ask yourself how many people your pet has been around at any given time. If the answer is only 3 then you might want to scale back your festivities or find some way to keep your pet away from all the new people. When scared or anxious, pets sometimes lash out or try to get out. Neither of which would make for a good party vibe.

Most importantly, be conscious about your pet(s) and their behavior. If necessary, take them into a quite and dark room so they can calm down and relax a bit and when you do so, make it a point to let your guests know not to go in the designated room. Everyone will have a much better time if these things are considered.

Preventing Hairballs

Oct 31, 2008 in Advantage, Capstar, Frontline, Pet Health, Pet Safety

Jodi Webb

The idea that we don’t have to bath cats as often as dogs is a plus. Of course that’s offset by that yucky little problem—the hairball. Instead of arguing with your family about whose turn it is to clean up the hairballs invest your energy in preventing them with a few simple steps.

1. Groom your cat daily, especially if you have a long haired cat. Sure they groom themselves but look where it gets you—on your hands and knees cleaning up gunk. Invest in a good brush and spend a few minutes slowly brushing in the direction of the hair (from head to tail)
2. Keep your cat entertained either by playing with him or providing lots of intriguing toys. If bored, cats will often spend their free time grooming. Extra grooming means extra hair in their system and often, hairballs.
3. If you can’t seem to get rid of the hairballs maybe your cat’s system just doesn’t process the fur effectively. Try a diet supplement that lubricates your cat’s system and makes it easier for the hair to pass. Because these hairball treatments come in a variety of flavors, your cat will happily accept them.

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Exercise Routine For Your Pet

Oct 26, 2008 in Pet Health, Pet Safety

Jodi Webb

We all want to start to exercise—we’re bombarded with news that even a little exercise can have a big effect on your health.  So why don’t we?  Well, so many times it’s just easier not to.  There are so many excuses: too cold, too tired, too busy.  That’s where the exercise buddy ploy works.  When you know someone is going to be waiting for you at the local walking trail you’re more likely to go.  Say hello to good guilt!  But what if you can’t find a reliable exercise buddy?

In Independence County, Arkansas that’s no problem.  According to the Arkansas Democrat Gazette, The Humane Society of Independence County recently started a Dog Walk Club.  Volunteers from the shelter and a bevy of eager dogs travel to a local park where they meet up with their human ‘exercise buddies’.  Who could skip their exercise when they know there’s a furry friend waiting at the park, straining at the leash?

Don’t worry if your local shelter doesn’t have an official program in place—create your own.  Ask your shelter if they need volunteer dog walkers(they’ll say yes).  But don’t leave it up in the air—commit to a certain time each week.  Knowing that the shelter volunteers will be watching for you every Wednesday at 5:30 makes you more likely to show up.  Exercise for you, fun for your exercise buddy, and the unconditional love of dozens of shelter dogs.

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Shampoo Your Dog: Turn On The Water

Oct 22, 2008 in Advantage, Capstar, Frontline, Pet Health, Pet Safety

Jodi Webb

As you get ready to bath your dog remember that most canines like the water.  It’s all in the way you present it.  So let’s try to make bathing a happy event.

  1. Use an old washcloth to clean your dog’s face.  No dog wants the showerhead spraying in(or threateningly close to)his eyes and snout.  And he isn’t supposed to get the inside of his ears wet anyway.  If your dog is an unwilling bather, you don’t even have to do this in the bathroom.
  1. Your order of attack should be to first turn on the tub spigot and get the water to the correct temperature—you can do this while your assistant bather is washing his face in the living room.  Then get your dog into the tub and turn on the showerhead.  Make sure the showerhead is pointed away from your dog when you finally turn it on!  Does your water temperature often change?  Constantly re-check the temperature to make sure it isn’t too hot or too cold for your dog.
  1. Wet your dog thoroughly then lather him from front to back with a pet shampoo.  Remember that the feet, rear, and tail are the spots that pick up extra dirt.  Don’t fool yourself into thinking a quick rinse will finish your bath.  You need to rinse head to toe at least three times to get out all the soap(watch to see if the water going down the drain is still sudsy—also check to see if any fleas or ticks are circling the drain).  If you don’t rinse thoroughly today you’ll regret it next week when you have a dog with itchy, dry skin.
  1. Avoid “the shake” by trying to get your dog as dry as possible with your towels.  Still, keep on the lookout for signs of an impending shake—most dogs will shake their head slightly before doing a body shake.  You can also try pulling the shower curtain and encouraging your dog to shake behind it.  Don’t forget to remove the cotton balls from his ears.
  1. When you finally set him free, having an assistant bather take him outside for a quick shake is another idea.  Also, keep an eye on him indoors.  No matter how dry you get them many dogs feel the need to dry themselves by rubbing against upholstered furniture.

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Shampoo Your Dog: Before You Turn On the Water

Oct 21, 2008 in Advantage, Capstar, Frontline, Pet Health, Pet Safety

Jodi Webb

As we all wait to see which way the $700 billion bailout bounces, most people are looking for ways to cut corners.  Instead of sending your dog to the groomer for a bath you can do it yourself.  I think the key to stress-free bathing(for you and your dog)is to prepare.

  1. Brush your dog.  Once those tangles become wet they’re twice as difficult to deal with.
  1. Install a handheld showerhead.  You can buy one for under $20 and it makes the job so much easier.  The alternative is bathing your dog in a tub of water and rinsing him with the help of a bucket.  It can quickly turn into a wet, inefficient nightmare.
  1. De-slip your tub.  If you don’t have a rubber bath mat, try a towel on the bottom of the tub. Anything to make your dog feel more secure.
  1. If he’ll let you, place cotton balls in your dog’s ears to keep out the water.
  1. Gather as many old towels as you can find.  Don’t kid yourself into thinking one will be enough—it won’t.  Also a washcloth for face washing.
  1. Find a partner.  It helps to have someone, especially post-bath to help avoid the dreaded doggy shake.

Ready?  Check out Shampoo Your Dog: Turn On The Water

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Adopt a Dog Month

Oct 15, 2008 in Pet Health, Pet Safety

Jodi Webb

October is Adopt a Dog Month and many humane shelters are offering incentives such as reduced fees or free spaying and neutering.  If you were considering a dog as a gift this Christmas, Hannukah, or Kwanza think again.  The winter holidays are a rough time for a new animal to enter the household.  Children are distracted by the festivities, entertaining either leaves your new dog alone while you attend parties or faced with dozens of new faces, and health risks to your new dog such as alcohol, mistletoe, leftover chocolate abound.

So why not considering introducing a new dog to your family in October instead?  Because you won’t be focusing on the surprise when your children open the present and find a furry little puppy you can get them involved in choosing the puppy.  It’s simpler to ease a dog into the household routine when the routine is still “normal” as opposed to “holiday”.  And for many homes October weather is still warm enough to enjoy time outdoors.  This helps when you’re helping a puppy burn off excess energy, house training him, and going on those long walks together.  Also, it’ll be tough for your kids to bond with a new puppy if they refuse to walk him from day one because they don’t feel like braving the snow and cold of December and January.  Thinking new puppy?  Think October.

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Bedtime is Going to the Dogs

Oct 13, 2008 in Pet Health, Pet Safety

Jodi Webb

It starts out innocently enough.  He’s just a lonely puppy, crying in the kitchen.  So you bring him into bed—just this once.  “Just this once” doesn’t exist in the canine vocabulary.  As far as he’s concerned every action you make is etched in stone.  So before you know it you’ve got a 200 pound, snoring, farting, smelly, restless-leg-syndrome sleeping buddy.  In our family it happened when my family went to a family wedding—everyone except my husband and Maggie our dog.  Four days later I returned to a lot of dirty dished in the kitchen sink and a dog in my bed.

That’s the problem with letting a dog into your bed: things change but your dog doesn’t want to.  You get a girlfriend, your dog gets too big to be a sleeping buddy, you get a second dog and know there’s no way you could sleep with two dogs in the bed.  And suddenly he’s shoved on the floor, wondering what he did to lose his exalted spot in the pack.

The best idea is to head off this problem by making your bed off limits from the beginning.  If you’re convinced the floor is too hard(although many dogs prefer the coolness of a kitchen or bathroom floor in the warm weather months)find him a soft dog bed—they come in all shapes, sizes, and firmness.  Does he miss you at night?  Try covering his dog bed with a shirt you’ve worn—your smell will comfort him.  Does he jump up on your white sofa instead?(What were you thinking buying a white sofa and a black dog?)  Take the time to flip the cushions into an upright position or cover the sofa with a few uncomfortable barricades(books, baskets, a kitchen chair).  Make his new dog bed a comfortable and convenient spot and before you know it he’ll be snoozing there every night without a whimper.

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Is your Pet Lone?

Oct 12, 2008 in Pet Health, Pet Safety

Jodi Webb

Fall and winter are mainly a decrease in events for our cat Simon to watch from his windows—animals, people, cars. The kids are back in school so he has no one to play with(also known as tormenting him). Except for occassional weather events: rain, snowstorms, even leaves falling from the trees—which make him crazy– he’s pretty sedentary during the cooler months. That’s why my husband planted some catnip in the backyard to harvest for Simon. [I don’t recommend this unless you plant it in a pot and cut off the flowers. Catnip will take over your garden.] Catnip stuffed in a toy can really get Simon moving. He’s even tracked it down when dried catnip was stored on a pantry shelf in a closed jar. A member of the mint family, catnip doesn’t affect every cat. Kittens and older cats aren’t that enthusiastic. If left to their own devices cats seem to like to rub up against catnip or chew on it. To help Simon get some exercise we introduce a catnip filled toy once a day, just out of reach and move it around to keep Simon searching for it. If you don’t want to risk your garden by growing your own catnip try one of the many catnip filled toys available.

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